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“Glasses, hell! We’ll just drink out of the bottles.” This inspired us to stop in Elkin for a bottle of beer. Beer is as hard to find in that town as a barbecue in the Middle West. There must be a dozen beer joints, but all seem skittish about advertising. Finally we nosed out a spot called the Palace Cafe. While Glenn dawdled over his beer and a cigarette, I called up a college friend of mine, and we pitted our voices against a nickelodeon howling something about “Silver Bells.” We won. coming down from Elkin it was fun to point out to