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of course, the tightening grip of fascism. The "March on Rome" of October, 1922, had made little impression upon those foreigners who filled the bars and the restaurants three years later, and the carabinieri, everywhere to be seen crossed out: strolling pacing in pairs in their napoleonic capes and hats added only a touch of crossed out: theatre opera to the splendor of the Eternal City ^which was meaningless to the crowds of foreigners crossed out: who unskilled in dictatorships, "If you persist in wise-cracking, we'll all end up in the questura," an irritated Italian ^proclaimed broke out, one evening.

   But the streetcars were beginning to travel

more regularly, the fleas were being exterminated and a train schedule was taking on a certain meaning; and when I heard crossed out: a speech given by Mussolini ^addressing the multitudes in the Roman Stadium I saw him as a symbol of virile government, crude and obvious but still perhaps the logical issue of such long-lasting senescence. And in fact the crowd in the Stadium that afternoon applauded frantically and little old ladies sobbed. "Come