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pumping Water out of his Mill by night, absolutely refused to permit me to try to go up to the Village that night, but took me to his house and treated me to his very best lodging & breakfast with true western hospitality. Friday, I rode twenty Miles or so horse back, in the Middle of a very hot day too, 9 am. to 4 P.M. 2 or 3 out at M. You would say enough to use up one completely at the East, one who had not been on a horse for 1/2 doz. years perhaps. But it did not hurt or tire me at all. They have splendid saddles out here, stuffed and quilted as soft as a Cushion, and then the saddle horses, trained to a gait, sort of Canter, very different from a hard trot. They ride horseback almost altogether here, single wagons or buggies being very rare, and the roads used almost entirely for two horses very hard footing for one horse in the middle

  I enjoyed the ride very much, beautiful country; part of the way along to high bluffs in sight of Missippi River; Corn 6 to 10 ft. high just travelling out, and  some only just out of the ground, Wheat mostly cut and poorly shooked up in the field.

Abundant orchards, especially of peaches, some cherries. Road sides abounding in big blackberries which I could pick abundantly without dismounting. However there are some Evils, probably lest the country might be Paradise. In the bushes every where abound what they call Wood ticks, much like a sheep tick, with a little white spot in the middle, who adhere and bite considerable. None yet are what they call "jiggers" a little red thing about as big as the point of a Needle, found I learned to my sorrow among blackberry bushes etc. who burrow into or under the skin, occasioning considerable burning itching & pain, and a hard lunch or blotch, like that of a mosquitoe on a stranger, only much more so, and sometimes getting all over one.

 I was going out to Perry Co. Sat. but could not get fairly started and so wait until Monday, which makes rather dull staying here.

Eve. I have not been at Church all day today, in account of the rain, much black Illinois deep mud, long hill to climb etc. In fact I am told there were but 10 out this A.M. and even the minister did not go this P.M. I have slept most of the time I believe!

   My health is very good. The weather for a week or two past has been about the same as our warmest weather in N.E.  I sweat profusely as usual, and am much of the time very thirsty.  I do not know whether from drinking the river water, from restraining myself from drinking as much as I desire, or from the food of the Country, which is universally most abominably too much salted. The Main article of food is Bacon every where in Illinois, the whole half hog salted & smoked in a side, always very salt. And at public houses, steamboats etc. they make the beef just so salt! And drink Coffee, Coffee in vast quantities strong as lye, three times a day Coffee & Bacon are two necessaries of life to regular sucker. The two skillfully combined make fever & ague I expect.

[at top upside down] It is now June 29. I think it will not do to send this letter till after July 1 and the new Postage Law is in operation. You must write to me when you find out where I am. I believe I shall direct this letter to Bangor expecting that you are there now with Lucy, Mother. Affectionately I.S.